BRAGA | An Insider's Take on This Northern Portuguese City
How we chose to live here & why it deserves more than a passing visit.
I am sitting outside on our patio this cool crisp day, enjoying the sounds of Braga: birds chirping, church bells ringing, children playing during recess at a nearby school, and old friends laughing in the café next door.
These are the sounds of Braga. To know her is to love her.
How Did We Pick Braga?
In full transparency, this charming little city wasn’t even on our radar until Josh and I were deciding on where in Portugal we wanted to live.
As we researched potential landing spots, we kept coming back to Braga, time and time again.
The 6 things that continually stood out to us were that it’s:
The third biggest city in Portugal but has a small town feel (which was just the transition we needed)
A lively college town (Minho University is close by) so it’s young and vibrant but also deeply community-oriented
Home to a bustling cultural scene with festivals and events happening almost every weekend throughout spring/summer
Full of green spaces (like Parque Rodovia) where we can take our pup for long walks
Close to a major international airport (Porto, OPO)
A lower cost of living vs. bigger cities like Lisbon and Porto
There’s Something About Braga
Truth be told – any “Gilmore Girls” fans out there will appreciate this – Braga honestly reminds me of Stars Hollow. I can’t quite put my finger on it – maybe it’s the cast of characters we regularly see about, the pergola that sits atop the city center, the guitar-playing town troubadour, or maybe it’s just its good ol’ fashioned charm.
Whatever it is, we were excited when we learned that Braga was named Europe’s Next Emerging Tourism Destination by the World Travel Awards in 2024!
If this northern Portuguese city isn’t on your travel radar, then it should be.
Some folks do a quick day-trip to Braga (if at all) while focusing most of their time in Porto or Lisbon. But I reckon that Braga is worth 2-3 days so you have plenty of opportunity to explore.
Having lived here for nearly two years, I am passionate about showing off this quaint little city so here’s my take on:
When to Visit
First up: the weather.
The best time to visit Braga is usually April-September (days are hot in the sun but cool in the shade); outside of that, you might be met with considerable rain. If that’s your jam, then just be sure to pack a good umbrella and rain boots.
All that said, it’s worth noting that December can also be lovely too; the city hosts a series of Christmas events known as Braga é Natal, which includes food and craft markets, kid activities, as well musical performances all month-long.
Where to Stay
There are several options to choose from when looking for accommodations in Braga but the ones I recommend are:
Each are relatively new boutique hotels located in the heart of the city center (Innside being the latest arrival in 2024). Full of charm, they’ve nicely blended modern with classic and historic architecture as well as design.
With great service across the board, you truly can’t go wrong with any option.
Of course, if you like to spread out more, our family stayed at this Airbnb recently and loved it; it was immaculate, cute, and in the thick of the action.
What to See & Do
Praça da República & Arco da Porta Nova
Praça da República is the beating heart of Braga so is an excellent starting point for your adventures.
This lovely plaza is home to an enormous water fountain in the center where you just might see dogs (ahem, Jett), children, and even an adult splashing around.
The square is where locals congregate to enjoy a stroll or just sit to take in the sights and sounds of the city.
Many cafes and shops are located in and around the plaza too (walking down the promenade of Avenida da Liberdade, I often delight in the seasonal flowers on display pictured above).
Straight down Rua Dom Diogo de Sousa (the center’s main artery), is the famous Arco da Porta Nova, which serves as the original point of entry to the historic town center.
It roughly translates to Arch of the New Gate. A Portuguese friend told me there’s a saying in Portugal that if you leave the door open in a house, for example, family and friends will quip, “are you from Braga?,” since there’s no actual gate or door on Arco da Porta Nova. 🙂
Jardim de Santa Bárbara
The landscaping throughout town is *chef’s kiss* and Santa Bárbara is no exception.
The small public garden is a feast for the senses with tons of different flower and plant varieties that perfume every square inch of the space.
A tranquil fountain sits in the middle as just the spot for some beautiful picture taking.
Santuário do Bom Jesus do Monte
Bom Jesus is a UNESCO World Heritage site located 10-15 minutes outside of the main city by car. The famous site, which took 600 years to complete, offers sweeping views of Braga.
The site sits atop Mount Espinho so it does require a bit of a climb (of course you can also take a Bolt vs. walk). Once at the base of the entrance, you have two options to get to the top:
Funicular (about a 5 minute ride and costs ~4 euro round trip per person)
Stairs (573, to be exact)
The latter, in my opinion, is the best way to enjoy the grandiose staircase leading up to the church (plus you get to see the religious iconography in a series of small chapels along the way). We aim to do the 10 mile hike from our apartment (round trip) at least once a month.
At the top, a beautiful church in rich Baroque and Rococo style sits alongside ornate hotels and buildings nearby (there are also little cafes and eateries too, which serve as the perfect spots for some gelato on a hot summer’s day).
Just beyond the church is another climb (albeit much shorter) to a beautiful lake, gardens, and picnic area where you can enjoy a boat ride or stroll.
💡Noteworthy: Bolt is an excellent alternative to Lyft or Uber (plus cost effective to boot). Be sure to download the app and use it whenever you need a ride throughout your stay in Portugal (it’s also available in other European countries too).
Sé De Braga
The Sé is the oldest church in all of Portugal and a must see when in Braga.
You can enter for free or, for 5 euro, get a tour of the cathedral, chapels, museum and high choir (there’s also an a la carte option where you can choose which of the four you’d like to see for 2-3 euro each).
The Gothic and Baroque interior of the church is a sight to behold and the tour is well worth it, if only for a special viewing of the stunning high choir pipes on the second level; it’s an absolute marvel in craftsmanship.
You can still get a good view from the ground-level church interior but if you’re a history buff, you’ll enjoy the tour.
Mercado Municipal
About a 5 minute walk from the Sé is Braga’s large indoor food and flower market.
Mornings, and especially weekends, are buzzing with locals buying goods for their restaurants or homes be it salsicha (sausage), batatas (potatoes), queijo (cheese), or vinho (wine).
The fruits and vegetables are always fresh and in season (I got the best avocados ever just the other day) and it even has a small indoor food hall pictured above where you can get a made-to-order meal (options run the gamut from sushi to traditional Portuguese fare).
It’s a great spot to soak in the spirited energy of Braga.
Festivals & Events
One of the things we love most about Braga are the festivals and events that happen throughout the year.
If you can, try to time your visit around one of them, which is detailed here.
Here’s a quick overview too:
May | Braga Romana (festival commemorating Braga’s rule under the Roman Empire)
May/June | Hopen Beer Fest (semi-annual craft beer festival – summer beer edition)
June | São João (two-week cultural event honoring John the Baptiste)
July | Vinho Verde Fest (Portuguese green wine festival; this one is our favorite!)
September | Noite Branca (end of summer white party)
December | Hopen Beer Fest (winter beer edition) & Braga é Natal (Christmas)
Where to Eat
Having dined at many eateries across town, there are 5 spots we continually return to time and time again:
Down a small alleyway that runs perpendicular to The Sé is this Portuguese tapas restaurant, which serves up delicious pataniscas (fried cod fish and potato cakes), sautéed mushrooms, and fresh shrimp in a buttery garlic sauce. It’s an absolute a favorite.
Right next door to Ruela is Lakkana. Josh and are suckers for good Thai and Lakkana is no exception (the Pad Thai, chicken satay, and spring rolls are outstanding). Any time friends and family are in town, this is one of the spots we always (I mean ALWAYS) bring them to; we just love how the authentic decor transports directly to the beautiful country. If you love Thai as much as we do, this is just the place!
This wine and cheese artisanal shop is a fantastic spot around the corner from Arco da Porto Nova. The cheese and wines hail not only from Portugal but across the Iberian peninsula as well as other European countries like Germany, France, and the Netherlands. And it’s also a great go-to for yummy souvenirs.
Noki, how I love thee; let me count the ways… Josh and I have visited this spot no less than 10 times and it gets better and better with each visit. Interestingly, the chef trained in the Canary Islands where he honed his love of Asian cuisine (we also recently found out he’s our next door neighbor).
The restaurant focuses on Asian-fusion street food, offering a tour of everything from Thai to Taiwanese to Korean flavors across the menu. You truly can’t go wrong with any dish but these are our favorites:
Gyoza de cogumelos (mushroom)
Bao pancetta (pork belly)
Frango (chicken) gochujang
If you love Japanese food then you MUST go to Omakase Experience. Omakase means “chef’s choice” in Japanese; the idea is that you sit back and enjoy items the chef chooses to serve you (it’s a fun way to add a surprise and delight element while dining).
Josh and I went a few months ago and had a mind-blowing dinner led by chef Michael Choi along with his incredible team; we opted for the premium menu (110 euro), which included hamachi, wagyu beef, and a myriad of other amazingly delicious items (plus all-you-can-drink beer and wine) – it was, hands down, one of the best dining experiences we’ve ever had… in our lives.
💡Noteworthy: You might have heard a lot about the dish, Francesinha (pronounced FRAN-SUH-ZEEN-YUH), a specialty here in Northern Portugal.
Typically, it’s a steak sandwich, drowning in a tomato-y sauce, and topped with a fried egg (you can also opt for chicken (frango) or vegetables, if preferred). Locals go wild for it.
Full disclosure, it’s just not my cup of tea… there’s just WAY too much happening on the plate. But if you’re curious to check it out, I’ve got you covered with some spots that get rave reviews:
Taberna Londrina (skip the infamous Taberna Belga; their dish tends to be cold and undercooked)
Whether you plan to visit Portugal next month, next year, or sometime in the future, I hope you keep Braga in mind; it’s a hidden gem worth visiting - from the historic sites to its rich culture, and great food to boot.
I guarantee you, it’ll be the delightfully tranquil pace you’ll crave after the enthralling chaos of Porto and Lisbon.